Hannah's Semester in Japan

Last Few Days

2011-02-01T01:33:00.000-08:00

I started packing up one of my suitcases today. Now that I'm actually doing it, it doesn't feel so bad. I've been constantly thinking about what it's going to be like going back to America, how I'm going to feel, and how much I'm going to miss my friends here. But I've been really putting off the actual preparation for my return journey. At some level I think that I thought that procrastinating would prevent going back from being real. And I've been completely scatterbrained for the last few days. Gah! I know that all endings are just new beginnings, etc., etc., but it doesn't make them any less hard.

I've been trying to spend as much time with my friends as possible, but on Sunday my host family drove me to Chiba prefecture. We went to a bay viewing spot that was absolutely freezing and picked wild daffodils by the side of a road while chatting with a wizened obaasan. We then drove very quickly and on twisty roads (I got carsick) to a very old traditional Japanese house that has been around for over 100 years. Today, I went with my host mom to Ueno and we went to the Tokyo National Museum. For lunch she took me a super-traditional Japanese restaurant with really really traditional food. The restaurant is supposed to be almost impossible to get into in the spring when the cherry blossoms are blooming because it has a fabulous view. I wish I was still going to be here to see that.

A few weeks ago I participated in Seiji no Ni (Coming of Age Day). It was cool to dress up in a kimono (which I own) and go to Meiji Shrine in Harajuku. But I felt super self-conscious. And then, once my friends and I met up (we're ALL in kimono) we earn ourselves a hoard of paparazzi. Apparently 5 foreign girls dressed up in kimono for Seiji no Hi is a rare sight. We literally could not stop for a quick photo without 20 or more people stopping up for more photos. It was ridiculous. But I have to say, dressing in a kimono was no where near as tight around the abdomen as wearing a hakama (kimono with skirt/pants thing). It was also annoying not being able to sit back in a seat of the train because I didn't want my obi knot to get destroyed. That really hurt my back. But overall, it was a great way to experience Japanese culture first-hand.

Just trying to stay in the moment and experience as much as I can. For me though, the sights are not as important as the people. I feel as though the photos I take are not really for me: they're for other people to look at where I've been and for them to imagine being there too. They aren't really for my own personal reflection. Most of the time I just feel obligated to take photos. I'd rather just take the time to be with my friends in and around Tokyo. Experiencing that kind of connection with great people in a great city is something no picture could ever capture.

Kyoto, Osaka, Nagoya, General Update, etc.

2011-01-07T02:08:00.000-08:00

So...I haven't done a blog in a really long time. I'm not all that great at these things. Fabulous moments pop into my head and then pass out again. But, I can give an update on my winter break and other things that are happening :-)

For winter break I went to Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagoya with 3 of my friends. For once, I did not do any planning for this trip. Instead of being the parent, I was the kid - which was a nice change. We found a ticket that we could buy for around 11000yen (maybe around @120?) for 5 days of unlimited use of the JR train lines all over Japan. So instead of taking the Shinkansen ([i.e. bullet train] which is really nice and quick, but very expensive) and then having to pay for trains and buses out of pocket, we got the pass. We had to take all local and rapid train to get from Tokyo to Kyoto however, which took about 8-9 hours. But it really was OK because we had to transfer trains a couple of times and that way we were able to stretch our legs. In Kyoto, we did end up buying a bus pass for one day (500yen) but it really was worth it.

The hostel we stayed at was really quite nice. I had expected hostels to be kind of grungy and loud but this was extremely clean and organized and quiet. We got the female dormitory, which had 6 beds. It was very cozy and really close to the big train station and right next to a 7/11. We actually bought our bus passes from the receptionist and we also received 5 free postcards :-) Not that I will actually send those out because I am even worse at sending out postcards than I am at updating this blog.

On our first day we had a hunt to find a good breakfast and ended up going to MacDonald's. This became kind of the norm (at least for me, because I actually want protein in my breakfast, not just bread). We then tried to figure out the bus system, which was a little confusing at first. Then we went to Kinkaku-ji, which is a golden temple on a little pond with all these moss-covered islands in it. Awesome! Then we got a little lost because of the high school cross country meet that was clogging up the roads. We then went to Roanji, which is a temple know for it's large Zen rock garden. After that we got lunch (I don't actually remember what we had) and then went back to the hostel, because we were totally beat. That night we walked around Gion, which was really cool but we didn't get to see any maiko :-(

The second day we went to Inari Shrine, which had all these fabulous orange torii (shrine gateway doo-dads). The were set up in rows so that it was just like tunnels of torii all around the mountain, so you could do lots of cool hiking. We didn't get to stay there very long though because we wanted to go to the aquarium in Osaka. To get to Osaka by train didn't take very long, but when we got off the JR train we needed to get on a subway to get to the aquarium most efficiently. However, subway trains in Osaka cost quite a bit more than they do in Tokyo. So we decided to walk, which took an hour. I was really ready to see the aquarium at this point. It was really cool. The design was such that you would start at the top of the aquarium and work your way down. Many time the tanks would be the same on different floors but you could see different fish because of where some were living in the tanks.

On the third day we went to Arashiyama and walked around. There was a great view of the mountains and a river running through them. We didn't want to pay any admission fees so we just did a lot of hiking and then bought omigaye gifts for our host families. And then on the fourth day we left Kyoto and went to Nagoya, where we spent the night in a ryokan (Japanese style inn). Our room was really large and we were given yukata robes to wear and there was an fabulous host spring bath (onsen) we could use. We spent the evening in Nagoya, wishing that Nagoya castle hadn't just closed for the holidays :-( But it was still really fun. The next day we went home.

It was a great trip because I got to see several different parts of Japan then Tokyo and got to spend some epic quality time with my friends. I have to say though, it was hard to figure out which side of the street or escalator to walk on. In Tokyo, the general rule is to walk on the left. You also stand on the left on escalators and walk on the right. But I had heard that in western Japan this was reversed. What ended up happening was that everyone just went everywhere and you could never tell where you were supposed to walk or what side to stand on. It mean, this happens sometimes in Tokyo but at least the general custom is what I mentioned above. It took me a while to adjust from America to Tokyo, and it was confusing to have to adjust again.

On a completely different note, on Monday is the Japanese Coming of Age Day. If you have turned 20 before January 10th, you qualify to participate in the day. Usually girls will dress up in kimono and men will do suits or kimono and go to a special ceremony. My friends and I that want to do Seiji-no-Hi (as it is called) aren't going to go to the ceremony because it will all be in Japanese and be rather boring for us. Instead we are going to dress up in kimono, go walk around in Harajuku with all the Japanese girls and go to Meiji shrine. I'm concerned that maybe Japanese people will think it is weird that an American girl is dressing up in kimono and walking around on Seiji-no-Hi. But I have been told that actually Japanese people will like to see that because I am actively participating in and trying to understand their culture. Also, my host mom seems really excited about this so I think I'm OK.

It's hard to think that I have less than a month left now before I go back to America. I used to get really sad about it but I'm starting to accept it more and just try to enjoy the time I have left. I have made such wonderful friends on this program that it is going to be incredibly difficult to say good-bye to them. On top of that, I'll be returning to American schoooling, which is so much harder than what I have been doing here. It will be a little bit of a rough transition. But on the other hand, a lot more work means less time to miss people. I just have to think of the up-side :-)

Japanese Food

2010-11-24T01:17:00.000-08:00

Oh the deliciousness! When I was in America and people were talking about making instant ramen for themselves to snack on, I saw it and I smelled it and I was disgusted. So I was a little wary of trying ramen here. But then I discovered the pure joy of this delicious noodle and all the varieties it comes in. Whenever I see ramen commercials on Japanese TV, it doesn't look that delicious. It just looks kinda greasy in a bowl of funky broth with an egg on top. That, of course, is only one variety of ramen. Soup ramen is good, but personally I think oily ramen is better. Especially when you throw garlic and cayenne pepper on top. At the moment, my favorite ramen is called tsukemen （つけめん）which is oily ramen that you dip into a bowl of deliciousness and then eat. I had it the first time at an apparently very famous ramen joint in Ikebukuro. The great thing about the broth mixture melange was the incredible variety of spices and flavors that all seemed to work together perfectly. Best lunch ever.

The Japanese are also very good at curry. A nice basic lunch is just to have rice and curry mixed together. Personally, I prefer Indian curry. There's an incredible Indian curry and naan restaurant on campus. They give you great portions and if you eat before 12pm it's half price. Awesome!

Other favorites include yakisoba and shabushabu. And of course gyoza. Those little dumplings are my go-to snack food.

I have to say that I'm actually not that impressed by sushi here in Japan. Part of the problem is that it is just SO EXPENSIVE! I mean it is incredibly fresh and made by sushi chefs that have been training and honing their craft for decades (literally). But, you get a teeny tiny dish for a ridiculous amount. I tried to cut costs yesterday by just getting a bowl that had mini pieces of a variety of raw fish. I begin eating and realized I had a surprise waiting for me at the bottom, i.e. nato （なとう). Nato = the most disgusting, gag-inducing food ever. I would take a pound of wasabi over a bite of nato. And some Japanese love it, can't get enough of it. Very strange.

It's hard to get used to the amount of rice. I am coming to appreciate it more, despite the depressing knowledge that it makes me put on a lot of weight. It's just really filling and it does go very well with many foods. Like seaweed. I would still prefer bread over rice here any day. Also, no cheese. I suppose that's not very surprising. But it does make you crave for just a tiny morsel of gouda or cheddar or feta. Pizza here is just weird here because of it. I mean there's cheese on the pizza, but a lot of times it is just a couple globs of melted mozzarella on the top. But when you're hungry, you're hungry. :-)

Nagano and Onward!

2010-10-30T06:46:00.000-07:00

Last weekend, my Japan Study group went on a retreat to Kagurizawa in Nagano. Fall has finally arrived and it was cold!! Which was a lovely break from the humidity of Tokyo. But the day I went back to Tokyo it got cold. And I got a cold. Which I have been fighting all week. I keep having to insist to my host family and other Japanese that I know that I am taking cold medicine and that I will be fine, I don't need to go to the hospital. Apparently, when you get sick in Japan, even if it's a cold, you just go to the hospital. Seems a bit overkill but that's what cultural differences are made out of.

I have to say that I really missed trees. Being out in the mountains in Nagano was really nice. I've never been a huge outdoor nut, and there are quite a lot of trees in Tokyo, but you miss having space. Trees and open fields and warnings about bear and boar attacks. It's all just delightful. It also made me really homesick. I can't really put my finger on why exactly. I felt like, OK I've been to Japan. Seen a lot. Snapped a few photos. Check. Now it's time to go home. I'm sure being sick didn't help much either.

Interestingly enough though, after having depressing homesickness and being emo for a day or two, I now feel re-energized to get myself back into Tokyo life. I've been trying to chat with my host mom more and write down phrases in a handy Japanese-English phrase notebook I bought so that I feel like I'm being more proactive about my Japanese language learning. The commute is still yucky, especially during morning rush hour. BUT, it gives me an opportunity to zone out on my iPod and my Nintendo DS. When you're so squished in between your highschoolers and businessmen for at least 40 minutes in the morning before you've had a decent cup of coffee, you need to have your own little world to go to. Otherwise you'll only feel hot and uncomfortable and constantly in the way. I've been trying to think like this more. It's a lot harder when I'm just grumpy about everything and am about to have a freak out because I've been shoved too many times in the train stations. But it's a work in progress.

More than anything, this trip has made me realize just how much I miss America. There are a lot of cultural aspects about Japan that I'm not so keen on and while I really like meeting international and Japanese students, I also miss Americans. I especially miss them during classes when the professor is trying to start a discussion about a topic and the other Americans and I are the only ones actively volunteering information and opinions and asking questions, etc. It's so normal for American students to act this way, but here it's completely opposite from the experience most Japanese students have ever had in a classroom. Or maybe it's just the fact that the other Americans and I are really loud and obnoxious and they feel we can talk for them. I miss not having to worry about a possibility like that. And I miss being able to hug people and yell across a room a greeting, etc. I mean, we do that anyway, but it's just such an out-of-place behavior. In general, I accept that there are negative aspects to being an American that a lot of other international people don't like. And I try to be accommodating and polite and non-offensive. But I also accept the fact that I am American, and I am proud of that. It's a part of who I am. Being abroad I can see more of the weaknesses and flaws of the US, and yet I feel more attached. Maybe I'm just young and naive. *shrug*

Settling In

2010-10-15T05:36:00.001-07:00

As my mother has been reminding me, I haven't written in a while. The glamour of being in Japan has worn off and I have settled into a routine. There aren't a lot of big events going on. My ACM Japan Study group has a retreat to Nagoya next weekend so that should be exciting, I'll have plenty to talk about then. I'm hoping that the foliage will start changing because I hear that's supposed to be really dramatic here. I am also just really ready for fall. I want to bust out my boots and sweaters and eventually my pea coat. I stick out a lot because most days I'm still wearing flip flops. Either the Japanese are very good at adapting to weather changes or they are very good at hiding how sweaty they are in their sweaters and jeans while it is in the 70s.

The other day the train to go home was delayed for a really long time, so the entire platform crowded up with people trying to get on the same train. I have never been so squished in my life. There was a guy who's hand was touching my butt, but he obviously didn't wasn't a creeper because he was trying to move away, but we were so packed in that he couldn't. I also am carrying a large purse for a bag right now, which gets really big on days were I have to carry a few books with me.

I went to Harajuku again today and it was a much more pleasant experience. Last time I went at night and it was very crowded. I was actually able to move around and browse without feeling like I was going against the current. Even so, I almost got run over by a bicyclist, but that's besides the point. That's like every day in Japan. I picked myself up some boots that actually fit - amazing! I actually have calves, so a lot of the boots in Japan fit my foot but I can't pull them up my leg. These fit and they were inexpensive. I feel really bad for some of my other friends, especially my guys friends. The sizes here just don't run big enough. I am experiencing that somewhat in terms of pants. A Medium in the states is more like a Large or an Extra Large. That's why the packing questions is so crucial and why I wished I had more guidance before hand. It feels awkward asking tons of questions about clothes before coming here, it feels like all you care about are the superficial things, but then you arrive and discover that its pretty critical.

Classes are going well. My International Journalism class is unlike any American class I have ever had in my life. I got really pissed about it on the second week actually. But I'm learning how to just go with the flow. You're expectations of the education system in Japan cannot be the same as they are in the states. My Tale of Genji class is really excellent though, I enjoy that a lot. Japanese classes are OK. I'm actually learning a lot from my host family, which is the whole point of the homestay I suppose.

I have discovered that I really like parks. There aren't a lot of places around Waseda where you can just go to chill quietly, but without having total silence like in a library. But there is the Okuma Garden, which is beautiful. There is also a park just past the main Waseda buildings that is nice too, although it is filled with mosquitos. Those nasty buggers are another reason why I am looking forward to fall.

Intensity

2010-09-25T05:13:00.001-07:00

A lot has been going on and it's hard to get a time to yourself. This is especially bad for me because I'm the kind of person that gets very cranky when around people for too long of a time. I need alone time to recharge. Now that I have moved in with my host family that's a little easier, but I'll get to that.

On Monday I met my host mother and moved in. I've got my own room with a Western style bed. Sometimes I'm not sure whether or not this is a pro or a con, for it is an extremely firm mattress. Though the Japanese style futon does not give your back and hips much support, it sure is cushy. Ah well. It has been brutally hot here except for the last three days where the temperature took a nose dive. I was feeling guilty about the fact that I had the air conditioner on all the time in my room, which you supposed to avoid especially at night, but now I'm bundled up with a sweatshirt on and thick socks. What can you say, it's typhoon season. My host mother and father are very nice. My host mother's mother also lives with us and wants me to call her Obaachan rather than Obaasan. We also have a cat, Miichan, who didn't like me at first but changed his mind once he figured out that I was a highly trained cat-petting adept.

Now that I have my own room, and out of a very small room shared with four other girls, I would really like to just hang out. But I can't. It's very important to connect with your host family early on, especially if you would like to be missing dinner because you're out partying every night later. I've actually found out that my host mom and I have a lot in common and we lot or dislike a lot of the same things. It also helps that she speaks English pretty well. We often switch off between Japanese and English. As I get more confident with my Japanese I'll probably ask her to switch to all Japanese, unless she wants to figure something out in English.

On Friday we got out Japanese cell phones! Actually I got mine Saturday morning because it was going to take a while and I wanted to be home for dinner. There are so many things in Japan that are really clever and creative and inventive that make me wonder why we don't have these things in America. One of them in infrared information sending. I think you might be able to get it on a few phones in America but in Japan it comes standard. Instead of typing out all of your new friend's information in your phone's contact section, you just put your phones next to each other and BEE BOO BOP! Your information went in his/her phone and yours went in theirs. Brilliant! Another thing I like is that there is a stand near the doors of cafes and restaurants where you put your umbrella in a little shoot and it gets put in a plastic bag. Then you pull the bag out and go on with your business. It's so that the water from the wet umbrella doesn't get everywhere. Then when you leave you just throw out the plastic bag in the handy receptacle. This is especially helpful during typhoon season, which it is now.

So I think clothes wise I did OK. I think I'm just going to get another jacket and sweater, because they weren't kidding when they said that layering was important. It goes from hot to cold to hot to cold, all the time. Also, American sweatshirts are really bulky and not at all the style here. And I need to get shoes. The shoes! It's a good thing I'm going to try and get a part time job. I've been going around in my flip flops but it doesn't really work so well. But sometimes its way too hot for sneakers. Most shoes don't fit me but I have discovered that Japanese shoes do! Fantastique! I am such a girl...

I start classes on Tuesday. I don't have any classes on Sunday and Monday, but I do have a class Saturday morning. At Waseda, classes are in hour and a half blocks. I have double Japanese Tuesday and Friday, Tale of Genji and its Readers on Tuesday and Thursday, and double International Journalism and East Asian Diplomacy on Wednesday. I've also got a Japanese elective class Friday night (Kanji Around Town) and my Saturday morning Japanese class. It should be interesting. It'll also be nice to be on a schedule again. Sometimes I don't even know what day it is, let alone what time it is - it's all a blur.

There are so many other things to do! I have to get a seal made so that I can open up a Japanese bank account, I have a Health Check on Friday so that I can use the gym, I have to figure out this whole club/circle thing, etc. Crazy life.

Never Ending Orientations

2010-09-16T01:36:00.000-07:00

So it's day four and we have another whole week of orientations. Ahhh! Some of the information from the numerous orientation sessions I've heard at least twice. I'm glad that they want to make sure we're all OK but still. My brain is melting.

Last night we went to a nomikai, which is an all you can eat/all you can drink restaurant. It was fun but I was really tired by the end of it. I just really want my cell phone! We get Japanese cell phones, which are way cuter than American cell phones, sometime next week. Trying to coordinate dinner and activities is so much more difficult without a phone. You don't realize how much you miss it until you don't have one.

First Day - Orientation and Akibahara

2010-09-13T00:44:00.000-07:00

All those things I was worrying about before coming turned out to be needless. I'm not really surprised but it's so nice at the same time. Everyone is so supportive and no one really knows what's going on or what people are saying most of the time, so I don't feel all alone. And I know that getting confident with the language will just take time. I've already got a bunch of friends and we're all helping each other out.

So we started the day with a Japanese continental breakfast, which consisted of toast, coffee, and this onion soup which was kinda good. We then went over to Waseda and got everyone's names, etc. We went through the handbook and talked about host families. Some people had their interviews for getting placed with the right family today, but mine is tomorrow. Instead, a bunch of us went with some Waseda students to Akibahara, Electric City. It was so intense, so many electronics! And I'm so glad I'm a city person because the crowds we crazy. I would have gotten overwhelmed way earlier than I did. Even so, eventually it just got too much. We walked around for a long time and went to a bunch of different arcades and got things out of vending machines (which are so much cooler here than in the US) and eventually ended up in this building that had like 7 floors with tons of stuff. It had 3 floors of arcades I think and then I think an escort service on one floor. The other floors we for shopping and they had everything! But there we so many people and no room to maneuver. Also, it took a little time to get used to all the incredibly awkward sexually charged items, like a back scratcher with big boobs on it. That's just the culture I guess, and it provides endless amusement.

The trains were also amazingly easy and not so worrisome as I thought. Just like everything else. The futon bed took a little getting used to. My back and hips protested the lack of support for a few minutes before I completely conked out last night. Oh yeah, five of us are sharing a traditional tatami matted room in the hotel. It's not a lot of space, since all of us have at least 2 big suitcases. I will welcome moving in with my host family so I can have my own room again. Or at least being in a double. But that's not for another 2 weeks. And we don't start classes until October. Oops, I have to go to dinner now. Digging the Japanese food!

The Day Before

2010-09-10T18:35:00.000-07:00

I have been going through periods between calmness and absolute freak out. Packing is just generally horrible. I am the kind of person who wants to be prepared for everything and anything. And as much as they tell you about the kinds of things you will need for Japan, it's never enough because YOU haven't been there yet. It's hard for me to just let go and say "I'll figure it out when I get there." Most distressing has been dealing with the prescription medications. I was just diagnosed for having migraines last week, but then I re-read the handbook where they tell you that you need to discuss what kinds of medications you are bringing into Japan with the Japanese Consulate well in advance. Super. This trip has already stretched my boundaries and I haven't even gotten there yet. I have to let go of the perfectionism and just be. Just enjoy the experience. It's not about discovering myself or figuring out my calling in life or becoming fluent in Japanese. It's just about the experience and what I get out of it. I am going to make mistakes, I already have, and I just need to chill and get on with it. Have a little cry and then suck it up and move on. Tomorrow I am going to sit on a plane for 14 hours and arrive the next day in a foreign country halfway around the world. OK, can do. I've just got to take it one day at a time. I've got my books, my iPod, my Nintendo DS, my pillow, and my sweater. I'll get snacks in the airport. I am set for the plane ride tomorrow. Then we'll see about the next day. That's just all I can do. But it's hard to tell myself that all the time. Perfectionists always think we can do more and do it better. Oh well. Tomorrow I am going to Japan. Bring it on.

A Little Less than a Month to Go

2010-08-15T13:04:00.000-07:00

So, I have to say that the stress is starting to mount about going abroad. At least going back to college is a known quantity: I have friends, I know where everything is, and I have a general idea what to expect about the coursework. In going to Japan, I have no friends and Tokyo is totally foreign to me, as is Waseda. Since I'm not confident at all as to where I'll be placed in the Japanese language classes, I could be put into a beginning Japanese course (despite having taken two years of Japanese already) or I'll be placed higher, where it is likely to be horrendously difficult. Super. I know what everyone says: you won't really learn Japanese in the classroom, you'll learn it on the street. But I'm also hoping that I'll be proficient enough to get into the next level of Japanese when I get back to St. Olaf - and I won't be able to do that if all I know is conversational Japanese and not some of the more complex grammar. Trying to study by myself is so hard, especially when I have a job and an internship this summer. Gah!

I'm also a girl, which means that I am very worried about what clothes to bring. I'm a jeans and t-shirts kind of girl, which I've heard is way to casual for Tokyo. Also, you're not supposed to wear clothes that are too tight. I'm not entirely sure if this means I have to get rid of everything, because I like my tops to be fitted. It would be great if study abroad programs could actually provide pictures of staple outfits built from American clothes that would be passable in Japan. I can't just wait to get there to find out the trends and buy all my clothes, not that I'll be buying that much anyway, exchange rate being what it is.

It's very hard for a worry-wort like myself to just try to be excited and enjoy the anticipation of an adventure in Japan. I got a guide on sushi and the specialties that will be available during autumn and winter. That made me a little excited. I just have to take it one day at a time.

Applying for a Visa

2010-07-22T14:21:00.000-07:00

Today I handed in the materials for applying for a visa to Japan! Since I live in the Boston area I figured I would just go to the Consulate in person, instead of mailing it in. It went very smoothly and apparently it will be ready in about 3 days. It made the entire trip to Japan seem much more real though. So far it's just been like "Oh, I'm going to Japan." I'm sure I'll start to freak out when I have to start thinking about packing and taking the Japanese placement exam. I am definately dreading the test. I don't want to do so badly that I'll be placed in beginning Japanese, even though I have been studying for two years. With that in mind, I hope to get in touch with a Japanese professor or at least a tutor in the next few weeks to work on my listening and conversation skills.